Confusion about engraving and which model to purchase

Hi all,

I saw a SBR Kriss a few months back at a local shop, fell in love until I was told I had to get a gun trust in order to have it. Well my happiness quickly shrank and I put my credit card back in my wallet after I heard I had to wait upwards of 6 months. Well today I went into the same shop and they now have a SDP on the wall. I held it but it didn't quite get me all giddy like the SBR did and for 1899 I wasn't entirely sold.

I had seen the post where you can remove the end cap and add the stock to make your SDP into a SBR but there's the issue of engraving which seems to come up short here. Is it necessary, on metal/polymer, nobody seems to have the most solid answer.

I'm trying to in essence have my cake and eat it too. I can use the SDP while I submit for the addition of the stock. I can do the swap myself considering the warranty, a meager 1 year, would be mostly run out by the time everything comes back, so voiding it would be a moot point.

So are people just going forward with the form 1 and putting the stock on it and not bothering with engraving? Sorry in advance if this is a repeat post, just askin a question. The form 1 stuff is bloody confusing.

The NFA handbook says "yes" you do have to engrave but I have talked with a few BATFE examiners and they said "no" you do not. I have 13 NFA items and the ones that are on a Form1 are all engraved. Not a big deal. I took my items to a shop that does mechanical engraving, wrote out the text, told them where to engrave, specified block letters a minimum or 1/6" high and at least .003 deep. Paid my $25 for the engraving and went home.

It is that simple. Don't let anyone tell you that you cannot engrave in plastic or that it has to be done on metal as that would be incorrect. The engraving just has to be in an area that is not covered up or on a part that can be removed. Also a myth that it has to be on the frame. You can engrave the barrel if it is not easily removed and is visible. You can easily scratch out .003 engraving on an aluminum AR receiver so it is bull that you cannot do it in plastic. Yes companies like Glock will stamp a metal plate with the SN and melt the plate in the frame, but that is not a requirement. Glock and others could just as easily engrave the plastic "if they wanted to".

MadDog

Thank you very much for the clarification! Certainly clears up the confusion I had from looking at various threads across the internet.

Yes you do have to engrave,it's that bad look for sporting stores that do trophys.Yes you can engrave plastic frames

The only problem I have with engraving the plastic is that it can be removed and rather easily.


Here is my thread on swapping lower housings from real to airsoft.
http://www.krisstalk.com/t741-kwa-lower-housing-swap

Give me an aluminum AR receiver and a simple pocket knife and I can "very easily" remove "any" engraving only .003" deep. Not a big deal. Moral of the story is do not scrape off the engraving on "your" NFA item for as long as "you" have it. If someone steels "your" KRISS SBR the engraving is the least of your problems.

That is the ticket SDP to SBR ! I have my SDP coming this week and plan to do the same adding the folder . The question I had is what is involved with adding the latch on the right side to latch the folder . The pics I have seen on SDP's show a plug were the latch would go . I watched the vid on the DIY but no info on the latch install . I emailed Kriss and they said they would add the folder to the SDP for 318. Cutting the barrel on the Carbine was 500. So going the SDP route is the more cost effective route!

Aeromat209 wrote:That is the ticket SDP to SBR ! I have my SDP coming this week and plan to do the same adding the folder . The question I had is what is involved with adding the latch on the right side to latch the folder . The pics I have seen on SDP's show a plug were the latch would go . I watched the vid on the DIY but no info on the latch install . I emailed Kriss and they said they would add the folder to the SDP for 318. Cutting the barrel on the Carbine was 500. So going the SDP route is the more cost effective route!

I think you are referring to the stock catch/release button? There are a few threads on this. Basically follow the armorer's course to take the top rail off. Remove the stock delete. The "V" lobe is screwed into a metal plate. With the stock delete removed, you can unscrew the bolt that holds the lobe in place. Remove the metal plate as well. Reinstall the top rail.

Hopefully your folding stock comes with the catch/release button and spring. If not you just slide it into the recess of the stock and drive the roll pin thru the top or bottom to hold the catch in place. Then line up the hinge and put a replacement pin to hold it all together.

No i beleive hes referring to the plastic latch knob on the right side where the stock latches into when closed... I believe its present on all models though